Niacinamide

Ingredient Spotlight: Niacinamide

What is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3.  It is related to Niacin, which people have been taking orally for many years to treat high cholesterol levels.  Only recently have quality studies began to surface that tout the benefits of niacinamide on the skin.  More research is being conducted and we expect the use of this substance to significantly increase over the next few years as companies begin to take notice of this great ingredient.

How can it benefit my skin?

Most of the benefits come from this compounds antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.  This ingredient has been studied in comparison with clindamycin for acne and was proven to be as effective as clindamycin with fewer side effects.  This is huge because bacteria are becoming more resistant to clindamycin so we need more options to treat acne than just antibiotics.

Niacinamide has also been shown to increase ceramide production in the skin which leads to increased moisturization.  It acts as an antioxidant to decrease oxidative damage (which causes many of the signs of aging).  Finally, niacinamide decreases red blotchiness of the skin- which is my favorite property of this wonder-ingredient.

Are there any side effects?

Unlike most ingredients that actually work, this ingredient has an extremely low side effect profile.  It is tolerated very well in most patients, even in higher concentrations.  There is always a chance that you could be allergic to this ingredient, but even that is very rare.  If you do experience side effects, discontinue use and let your physician know if it is severe.

Which SimplySkin Rx products contain Niacinamide?

Our Prime Day Lotion contains a healthy dose of niacinamide.  We also have niacinamide in some of our professional spa products that can be found at The French Door.

Retinol

Ingredient Spotlight: Retinol

Over the next few weeks we will be spotlighting some of our favorite ingredients in skin care and educating you on the way that they work and any side effects that they cause.  Stick with us and you will know all about what you want to incorporate into your skincare routine- feel free to ask questions or give suggestions for topics that you want covered.  

We'll be starting with Retinol because it is our FAVE ingredient--why?--because it imparts the most dramatic results for aging and blemishes while also having general health benefits for your skin.  

So, what is retinol/retinoids?

Retinol/Retinoids are a derivative of Vitamin A and you may see it listed as several different names.  Below is a list of names for the prescription and non-prescription versions.

Prescription:  Retin-A (Tretinoin), Differen (Adapalene), Tazorac (Tazarotene)- there are also many combination products that have a retinoid as one component, so this is not an exhaustive list

Non-Prescription:  Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinaldehyde

How does it help with Blemishes?

Retinoids help to open pores and prevent clogging.  They also decrease excess oil production in the       skin.   

How does it help with Aging?

Retinoids increase skin cell turnover, which is a natural process that slows down as we age.  It also increases the quality of the new skin cells that are being formed- they are more rounded and even.  One of the biggest benefits of retinol is that it can increase collagen production, which gives our skin its elasticity and resilience.  

How does it keep your skin Healthy?

     Retinoids are antioxidants that decrease inflammation and protect the skin from oxidative damage.  They possibly can protect the skin from certain types of skin cancer- though more research is needed in this area.  Retinoids can also decrease photo damage from the sun.  There are other skin conditions that benefit from retinoids such as rosacea and psoriasis- consult your physician for more information about this.

Do I need Rx or OTC?

     The answer to that is determined by your skin condition.  Prescription retinoids are much stronger and they also have more side effects (it's a trade-off).  If you have severe acne or if you have not taken good care of your skin for many years, you may want to start with the prescription version.  Otherwise, start with the non-prescription version and work your way up.  Retinoids have side effects and you can develop a tolerance to them so it is best to "start low and go slow" when using them.

What are the side effects?

     The most common side effects are dry, flaky skin, red bumps and itching.  These side effects are generally experienced during the first 2-4 weeks of use or increased dose and will usually go away after your skin has adjusted.  For this reason, I often recommend that people start out using a retinoid every 2-3 days and then increase that frequency when they are able to.  The photo above represents a more severe reaction that is possible when you first start using a retinoid; most people that have a reaction will not respond to this noticeable degree but I wanted to give you an idea of what it looks like.  Retinoids also cause your skin to be more sensitive to the sun, so always wear a sunscreen (which you should be doing anyway!).

When can I increase my dose?

     If you are using a prescription retinoid, your physician will direct you on when and how to change your dose.  If you are using an over the counter product, you can increase your dose if you are no longer experiencing side effects and if you do not feel that you are getting the same benefits as you did when you first started using a retinoid.  To increase your dose, you can either add an additional retinol containing product or you can use your product more often.  (I have recently added a retinol serum to boost my dose- this serum will be available soon via our website as I know some of my clients are needing a boost too).

Who should not use retinol?

     Do not use retinol if you are pregnant or nursing.  Also, some people cannot tolerate retinol in any strength- they experience a red bumpy rash that does not go away or is severe.  If you experience this type of rash you may want to consult your physician about other beneficial skin care ingredients.

Which SimplySkin Rx products contain Retinol?

Prime- A Day Lotion contains a 1% concentration of retinol.  This is on the lower end of concentration, but it is in a proprietary formula that is designed to penetrate deeper into the skin.  Our goal with this formula is to provide a "middle of the road" dose of retinol in a formula that is less likely to cause irritation.  We still recommend that you start slow when using it and increase your usage as you are able.  Looking for more retinol?  We have added retinol 1%, 2% and 3% serums to our website that you can use to boost your dose as needed- photos will follow soon.

Healthy Habits

Habits….now there's a word I detest.  We all know that is important to establish good habits in our lives and that it is unfortunately easier to form bad habits.  When it comes to your skincare routine it is all about establishing good habits.  You need a routine that is easy enough to stick with and that gives you the results to keep you motivated- which is what we have established with SimplySkin Rx.

Keeping your skin beautiful and healthy is all about good daily care over a long period of time.  Sure, there are ways to reduce the damage that has been done to your skin, but it is far better to prevent it in the first place.

What are your best and worst skincare habits….I'll share my worst.

When I get stressed out and really tired, I skip my nighttime skin routine.  It usually goes like this: I fall asleep on the couch watching TV or reading and I then convince my husband (Lee, also SimplySkin Rx partner) to give me a piggy-back ride to bed because I'm just too tired to walk (and let's face it, I love the attention).  Then, I can't go to the bathroom to do my skincare because I've just made the biggest deal about not being able to walk to bed.  So I'm stuck….with my makeup still on (GASP!) until morning.  I always regret it, and my skin angrily protests the neglect with some sort of blemish.

My best skincare habit is weekly exfoliation with my Renew mask.  It has made the most visible difference in my skin and I'm so pleased with it that I'm considering taking it a step further with a professional peel.

Ok, I've shared my best and worst….what are yours?

Five Great Summer Hats

The sun is shining and the temperature is rising (in most of the United States anyway).  It's that wonderful time of year where you long to be outside after a long short winter.  As you head out, make sure you are protecting your skin from the sun.  Of course you want to wear sunscreen, but you might want to add a hat as well for additional protection and as a fashionable accessory.  We love hats and thought this would be a great opportunity to do a little pre-shopping to inspire you.  Here are 5 Great Summer Hats and the links to their respective websites.  Happy Spring Everyone!

1.  I love this hat because it provides shade for your face AND neck while still being stylish and compact.  It is also an inexpensive choice which is even better.  You can find it at Zappos, and they have a great return policy so you are sure to be pleased!

http://www.zappos.com/product/7612889/color/9272

2.  I adore Kate Spade and this sun hat from her spring collection has me salivating!  It is a fun color combination and it looks like it would pack well in a suitcase for a trip to the beach.  That wide brim will block a lot of UV rays, keeping your face young and fresh.

http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/kate-spade-new-york-garden-society-sun-hat/3256568?origin=category&resultback=2403

3.  Who doesn't love a Fedora?  They're fedorable….ok, bad joke.  But seriously, I love the shape of this hat and the white/black color combo can be worn with so many different outfits.  It's a great find from Target and very economical.  However, I'm sure you can't squish it up and pack it in a suitcase- but with a hat this cute you'll probably just want to wear it whilst you travel.

http://www.target.com/c/women-accessories-hats-scarves-gloves/-/N-5xtbn#?lnk=nav_t_spc_1_inc_1_2

4.  This is the ultimate wear anywhere, go anywhere, matches everything hat.  You can fold it and pack it and it will look just as nice with your Sunday dress as it will with your beach attire.  If you are really creative you can tie some ribbon around it to match your outfit.  

http://www.jcrew.com/womens_category/accessories/scarvesglovesandhats/PRDOVR~74503/74503.jsp

5.  If you enjoy outdoor sports you will want something more compact like a ball cap.  This one is a little more fashion forward than your run-of-the-mill ball cap and it also wicks away sweat and keeps you cooler than a standard cap.  

http://www.rei.com/product/828104/salomon-xr-hat-womens

Becoming The After

Becoming the After….what does that even mean?  Well, aren't we a little obsessed with makeovers of any sort; home, fashion, hair, fitness and beauty?  I love the idea of transformation, the idea that you don't have to be stuck in a rut, you can change.  Today I am reflecting on what my "After" would be in various areas of my life and how would I get there.  I'm also challenging you to reflect on your "After"- how can you be your best you?  I would love to hear your comments on the subject and in the meantime I'll share some great "Afters" to inspire you!

Home Makeover (and a great blog!)

The Nester

Ok, so I'm sure that the painted brick is not for everyone- but I adore it!  And that copper awning and the new double front door make it look so welcoming.  Lush green grass and simply elegant landscaping finish off the makeover.  I think this is so inspiring because the "Before" was so mundane and typical- it could be in any neighborhood in any town in America, and the "After" is just so special and unique.

Fitness Makeover

The 21-Day Total Body Makeover

So here's the thing about this 21-Day Makeover- I love it and I hate it.  I don't want to insinuate that you can completely change your body in 21 days and I think that we all know that fitness is about a lifestyle change.  However, having said that, I love that this 21-Day plan gives you a starting point to getting in shape or it can renew your current fitness plan.  Also, 21-Days is completely achievable and it is enough time to see some results-which will empower you to keep on the right track.

Fashion Makeover

Who doesn't love the fashion montage scene from The Devil Wears Prada?  Her "Before" reminds me of a time that in my life when I just didn't take care of myself- I distinctly remember sitting in my hairstylist's chair about 6 months after the birth of my daughter and thinking "What happened to me?!?".  I was dressing sloppily, not taking care of my skin and going WAY too long in between haircuts.  That was the point at which I started my journey to my "After".   I started taking pride in my choice of clothing, getting my haircut on time (mostly) and researching skin care and makeup techniques.  I also got back into exercising regularly and attempting to eat right (which is a constant battle for me these days).  I'm certainly not an advocate of pure vanity and I don't think that the way you look defines you.  There are many other facets to all of us that are much more important than our outer appearance, but for me, the way that I take care of my outer appearance does say something about the way I feel inwardly.  So, how are you going to get your "After"?

The Dry Skin Myth

Dry skin causes wrinkles, right? Right?  That’s what I’ve always been told and that’s what I believed until I took a closer look into this common myth.  Let’s take a look into what makes the skin form wrinkles. The causes of skin aging can be broken down into 5 categories that we will look at individually.

Skeletal Remodeling

Huh?  As we age, our bones go through changes and the bones in our face actually tend to decrease in size.  As you can imagine, if the bones are smaller they don’t “fill in” our faces as well.  This is particularly evident in the jaw and on the forehead, where the skin often starts to sag.  Unfortunately, there isn’t a lot that we can do at this time to prevent this from happening.  There isn’t a cream in the world that can fix this, but there are non-invasive procedures (fillers) and surgical procedures (face lifts and facial implants) that can help if you want to go that route.

Gravity

Well, we all know about this one.  As we age the cumulative effects of gravity start to take over.  Gravity is constantly working against us and pulling our soft tissues downward.  Now, obviously we can’t take away the gravity effect unless we all move to the moon but we can take steps to make our skin more resilient to gravity.  Collagen and elastin fibers help to hold our skin structures together and as we age these fibers deteriorate.  The goal is to increase the natural formation of these two fibers.  You can do this in several ways- the most important thing to do is feed your body the ingredients that it needs to make them:  soy, dark green vegetables, and beans can all help.  Secondly, treat your skin with glycolic acid or another one of the alpha-hydroxy acids to stimulate production.

Muscular Facial Activity

You know those people that have their feelings written all over their face?  I’m one of those people with a very expressive face- and I pay for it with crow’s feet, the dreaded “11” on the forehead and other expression lines.  The good news is that research has brought us wonderful ingredients that help to decrease these lines.  Argireline (otherwise known as acetyl-hexapeptide 3) is a peptide that decreases the muscle tension that causes these lines.  It doesn’t work to the same extent that an injectable would, but it does offer great non-invasive results on expression lines.  

Soft Tissue Maturation

As we get older, our skin cells and the tissues underneath begin to function differently.  The skin cells become flattened and distorted and the skin itself becomes thinner.  Skin cells are produced at a much slower rate than they were when we were younger.  These factors cause the skin to lose more water- which makes the skin look worse, but I’ll get to that later.  Retinol is one of the greatest ingredients available to mitigate these effects.  Retinol speed up skin cell turnover- it helps you to make new skin cells faster.  The best news is that the new skin cells that are formed tend to function more normally and are not flattened.  After just two weeks of use you can see visible benefits of retinol and there are countless benefits that you can’t see.  There are few ingredients that I would term to be true skin care “superstars” but this is one of them.  There are certainly side effects of retinol use and some people cannot tolerate it (it can cause dry flaky patches, itchiness and redness).  To avoid side effects, try using it every other day until you know how your skin reacts and increase usage as you are able to.  The side effects should subside after two weeks.  If you use retinol make sure you protect your skin from the sun because it will be more sensitive.

Solar Changes

When it comes to damage from the sun, there is good news and bad news.  The bad news is that it wreaks havoc on our skin- causes skin cancer, sun spots, collagen and elastin destruction...need I go any further.  The good news is, you guessed it, it’s preventable!!!  So lather up, get your fake bake on and look young for years to come!

So what about dry skin?  Well, as I said earlier, it just makes wrinkles look worse.  By hydrating the skin we plump up those areas that are wrinkled and sagging and drooping.  Did you know that some companies will use alcohol to clean someone’s face before they take “Before” pictures in skin care product trials.  That’s because alcohol dries out the skin cells and makes the skin look worse than it actually is!  

There are 3 key ways to hydrate the skin:

1. Provide it with water- drink up!
2. Provide it with hyaluronic acid- this ingredient is incorporated in SimplySkin Rx’s Prime and Restore products.  It binds water in the deeper layers of the skin to keep it moisturized from within. (Stay tuned for our new Hydrate mask that contains hyaluronic acid)
3. Provide it with oils- the key moisturizing ingredients in lotions and creams are the oils that help your skin retain moisture.  Sometimes it takes time to find a formulation that works for you and doesn’t clog your pores, but your skin needs moisture so keep looking.

The Paraben Myth

This is probably one of the most controversial topics in skin care.  Many people believe that parabens cause breast cancer.  Lots of companies advertise products that are “paraben-free” and spend their time and money convincing you that you shouldn’t use products with parabens.  Hmmm....let’s take a look at the evidence and then you can make your decision accordingly.

First, what are parabens?  They are chemicals that are used to preserve foods, deodorants, antiperspirants and cosmetics.  They protect the product from a broad range of microorganisms (bacteria AND fungus) that could ruin the product or cause illness or infection in the user.  They are extremely effective, low cost and have a long history of use.  That all sounds sounds pretty reasonable to me.

What evidence exists to show that parabens cause breast cancer (as many people claim)?  I found this article from the National Cancer Institute that is pretty helpful in discussing what research has shown.  Basically, a 2004 study found parabens in 18 of 20 breast cancer tissue samples.  The study did not look at healthy breast tissue samples to determine if parabens were present there.  There have also been other studies that specifically looked at breast cancer patients who used antiperspirants and deodorants and shaved.  All of the research was inconclusive and there is no research available that proves that parabens cause breast cancer.  More research is needed and I’m sure that we will hear more on this topic in the next few years due to the controversy (and the large amount of funding that is available for breast cancer research).

What do the “powers that be” say about parabens?  Check out this information from the FDA.  The Cosmetic Ingredient Review board concluded that parabens were safe for use in cosmetics at levels of up to 25%.  WOW!  Did you know that it only takes a concentration of 0.01% to 0.3% to properly preserve a product.  The next time you look at the ingredients on your product, notice that parabens are usually listed last or next to last.  That is because the ingredients are listed in order of concentration from high to low and parabens are used in extremely low concentrations.  

So, my take on parabens is that they are safe for use and very effective.  We use them in very low amounts at SimplySkin Rx and will continue to do so until one of two things happen.  If we find a preservative that is more effective or if parabens are ever proven to be harmful we would immediately remove them.  I know this is a sensitive subject because breast cancer has touched so many of us and those around us.  If you’ve looked at all of the research and you STILL think that you want to go paraben free there are definitely products that are available to you.  

I hope that this was helpful in sorting out the facts vs. the hype.  Leave your comments below!