Alpha-Lipoic Acid

Ingredient Spotlight: Alpha-Lipoic Acid

What does it do?

Alpha-Lipoic Acid (ALA) is a potent antioxidant- which prevents aging caused by oxidative damage.  It has been called the "universal antioxidant" because it is soluble in water and oil, which means that it can penetrate all components of our cells and provide better protection against free radicals.  It also boosts the effectiveness of other antioxidants.

Are there side effects?

Unfortunately, this is an ingredient that can cause irritation on some people's skin if it is being used in proper strengths.  To get the wonderful anti-aging results you will need to use it in a 5-10% concentration.  The best way to avoid irritation is to start slow (this is a universal rule with new skincare products) and increase your usage as you are able to.  Your skin will most likely develop a tolerance to any irritation unless you are truly allergic to the ingredient.

What about oral supplements?

There are many ALA supplements on the market and I'll address those while we are on the subject.  In your body, ALA is a component in glutathione production, and glutathione removes toxic substances from the liver.  ALA has also shown promise in treating diabetic neuropathy- which is also due to it's glutathione connection.  It provides antioxidant protection for your body-which we have learned is increasingly important.  There are several other proposed benefits of ALA, but there is not a lot of quality research to support many other benefits.  ALA is naturally occurring in meats and some vegetables, but it would certainly be a great supplement to consider based on the antioxidant benefit and the fact that it is both water and lipid soluble.  An oral supplement can provide some benefit for your skin as well, but topical application will give you the best skincare results.

Which SimplySkin Rx Products have Alpha-Lipoic Acid?

We have a 5% concentration of ALA in our Refine Night Cream.  This concentration is strong enough to give you great results, hopefully with minimal side effects.  We've combined it with other beneficial anti-aging ingredients that we will be sharing with you over the next few blog posts.

Niacinamide

Ingredient Spotlight: Niacinamide

What is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3.  It is related to Niacin, which people have been taking orally for many years to treat high cholesterol levels.  Only recently have quality studies began to surface that tout the benefits of niacinamide on the skin.  More research is being conducted and we expect the use of this substance to significantly increase over the next few years as companies begin to take notice of this great ingredient.

How can it benefit my skin?

Most of the benefits come from this compounds antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.  This ingredient has been studied in comparison with clindamycin for acne and was proven to be as effective as clindamycin with fewer side effects.  This is huge because bacteria are becoming more resistant to clindamycin so we need more options to treat acne than just antibiotics.

Niacinamide has also been shown to increase ceramide production in the skin which leads to increased moisturization.  It acts as an antioxidant to decrease oxidative damage (which causes many of the signs of aging).  Finally, niacinamide decreases red blotchiness of the skin- which is my favorite property of this wonder-ingredient.

Are there any side effects?

Unlike most ingredients that actually work, this ingredient has an extremely low side effect profile.  It is tolerated very well in most patients, even in higher concentrations.  There is always a chance that you could be allergic to this ingredient, but even that is very rare.  If you do experience side effects, discontinue use and let your physician know if it is severe.

Which SimplySkin Rx products contain Niacinamide?

Our Prime Day Lotion contains a healthy dose of niacinamide.  We also have niacinamide in some of our professional spa products that can be found at The French Door.

Retinol

Ingredient Spotlight: Retinol

Over the next few weeks we will be spotlighting some of our favorite ingredients in skin care and educating you on the way that they work and any side effects that they cause.  Stick with us and you will know all about what you want to incorporate into your skincare routine- feel free to ask questions or give suggestions for topics that you want covered.  

We'll be starting with Retinol because it is our FAVE ingredient--why?--because it imparts the most dramatic results for aging and blemishes while also having general health benefits for your skin.  

So, what is retinol/retinoids?

Retinol/Retinoids are a derivative of Vitamin A and you may see it listed as several different names.  Below is a list of names for the prescription and non-prescription versions.

Prescription:  Retin-A (Tretinoin), Differen (Adapalene), Tazorac (Tazarotene)- there are also many combination products that have a retinoid as one component, so this is not an exhaustive list

Non-Prescription:  Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinaldehyde

How does it help with Blemishes?

Retinoids help to open pores and prevent clogging.  They also decrease excess oil production in the       skin.   

How does it help with Aging?

Retinoids increase skin cell turnover, which is a natural process that slows down as we age.  It also increases the quality of the new skin cells that are being formed- they are more rounded and even.  One of the biggest benefits of retinol is that it can increase collagen production, which gives our skin its elasticity and resilience.  

How does it keep your skin Healthy?

     Retinoids are antioxidants that decrease inflammation and protect the skin from oxidative damage.  They possibly can protect the skin from certain types of skin cancer- though more research is needed in this area.  Retinoids can also decrease photo damage from the sun.  There are other skin conditions that benefit from retinoids such as rosacea and psoriasis- consult your physician for more information about this.

Do I need Rx or OTC?

     The answer to that is determined by your skin condition.  Prescription retinoids are much stronger and they also have more side effects (it's a trade-off).  If you have severe acne or if you have not taken good care of your skin for many years, you may want to start with the prescription version.  Otherwise, start with the non-prescription version and work your way up.  Retinoids have side effects and you can develop a tolerance to them so it is best to "start low and go slow" when using them.

What are the side effects?

     The most common side effects are dry, flaky skin, red bumps and itching.  These side effects are generally experienced during the first 2-4 weeks of use or increased dose and will usually go away after your skin has adjusted.  For this reason, I often recommend that people start out using a retinoid every 2-3 days and then increase that frequency when they are able to.  The photo above represents a more severe reaction that is possible when you first start using a retinoid; most people that have a reaction will not respond to this noticeable degree but I wanted to give you an idea of what it looks like.  Retinoids also cause your skin to be more sensitive to the sun, so always wear a sunscreen (which you should be doing anyway!).

When can I increase my dose?

     If you are using a prescription retinoid, your physician will direct you on when and how to change your dose.  If you are using an over the counter product, you can increase your dose if you are no longer experiencing side effects and if you do not feel that you are getting the same benefits as you did when you first started using a retinoid.  To increase your dose, you can either add an additional retinol containing product or you can use your product more often.  (I have recently added a retinol serum to boost my dose- this serum will be available soon via our website as I know some of my clients are needing a boost too).

Who should not use retinol?

     Do not use retinol if you are pregnant or nursing.  Also, some people cannot tolerate retinol in any strength- they experience a red bumpy rash that does not go away or is severe.  If you experience this type of rash you may want to consult your physician about other beneficial skin care ingredients.

Which SimplySkin Rx products contain Retinol?

Prime- A Day Lotion contains a 1% concentration of retinol.  This is on the lower end of concentration, but it is in a proprietary formula that is designed to penetrate deeper into the skin.  Our goal with this formula is to provide a "middle of the road" dose of retinol in a formula that is less likely to cause irritation.  We still recommend that you start slow when using it and increase your usage as you are able.  Looking for more retinol?  We have added retinol 1%, 2% and 3% serums to our website that you can use to boost your dose as needed- photos will follow soon.